Caterina de’ Medici

Who comes to mind, if I ask..Who was the first celebrity chef? Julia Child. I’m sure. But I’m talking classics here...and that’s where we’ll travel to this week by exploring people who have made their mark on food and more importantly, the further development of cuisine. You could say I owe the starting point in my culinary career to them. 

An important figure of the Renaissance, Caterina de’ Medici became one of the first influential people in culinary history. She's known as the Italian Queen Mother of France's high cuisine; Caterina de’ Medici (1519-1589) of Florence. During the Italian Renaissance of the fifteenth century she imported a new style of refined cooking to France, as we know it today.

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In 1533, at the age of fourteen, Caterina married Henry of Orlèans; the future king of France. With that important event she brought a large group of cooks and servants to accompany her to France. The Florentine cooks who accompanied her immigrated a unique style of Italian cooking and ingredients to France; including peas, beans, artichokes, duck cooked in orange, aka canard a l’orange, and onion soup. The pastry cooks offered a style unknown to the French at the time; preparing pasta, pastries, sorbets, ice creams, marmalades, and fruits poached in syrup. This was a major turing point in cuisine for them. BTW, the frangipane tart is named after Sir Frangipani.

Caterina de’ Medici also established a new etiquette at the French dining table; by serving meals in courses, separating sweet and savory foods. Keep in mind at the time, sweets were still eaten at the same time with savory meat; that was the common in medieval times. I know a few people who may be fond of the later and rather start with dessert. At that time, French cooking already was evolving and the presence of this new style had an influence on the future of French cuisine. 

The people of France were taught Florentine elegance by Caterina as she introduced gracious table settings and dining habits, embroidered napery, along with silverware and hand blown glassware.   

Take part in the Italian Renaissance and prepare my Onion Soup Recipe. Just do as Caterina and serve with style.

Food as a Translator

Forget about the stories of screaming chefs throwing pots and pans in a hot kitchen to get their point across. Today, I'd like to think it’s more of a calm environment with chefs communicating on-and-beyond behind the line.  A few words resinate; local and sustainable. Chefs are sharing the important message of what’s not only fresh on today’s menu- that's local; but they are putting emphasis on using ingredients that haven’t spent unnecessary time on the back of a truck to get to your plate. 

There’s a lot to be said for my brothers and sisters in the kitchen and the connection we all share no matter where we are in the world. My friend Gino, owner L’Orciaia Trattoria, in the historic village of Montebenichi- (halfway between Siena and Arezzo, in the Tuscany region) and I shared an instant connection as if we've known each other for many years. The thing is Gino speaks no English, and my Italian is, well- niente. 
I'd like to think the bond is because we share the same love of food, prepared simply with the purpose to feed and nurture others.

Here's a recipe that I learned from Gino. He serves this local speciality, a typical Sienese dish. You would die for his Fagioli al Fiasco, Beans in the Flask; basically beans cooked in a Chianti bottle. Note, without the wrapped straw. It's so simple, yet one of my most memorable dishes I tasted traveling in Italy.

Fagioli al Fiasco aka Beans in the Flask
Cannellini beans are soaked overnight in water with salt.

The next day put into the ‘fiasco’ or heat-proof crock with 2 Tbsp of olive oil and 2 cloves of garlic, a quarter onion, 2 sage leaves, a small piece of fresh rosemary. Then fill 3/4 full of water or better yet chicken or meat broth. Bring beans up to a boil, then moved to a lower temperature, cap and gently simmered for an hour. Traditionally the fiasco was capped and put next to a dying fire in the hearth and slowly cook until the next day. 

Oh, the translation of this recipe- I promise it didn’t suffer when Gino and I talk over a few Grappas!

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