Maple Gold

It just seems fitting, breakfast for champions. Congrats to Hockey Canada.

Maple Gold, pure natural syrup is tapped from maple trees in Quebec, Canada. Maple Gold is part of the CITADELLE Producers' Cooperative housing other familiar and coveted Canadian brands such as Camp, Citadella, Cleary's and O'Canada. Did you know Canada is responsible for nearly 70% of global supply of this golden maple nectar?

Well I hope this inspires you to have a side of My Steamy Belguim Waffles with that thick and rich syrup. This post brings back great memories of summers in Canada with my family and we would always return from Canada with a tin maple syrup. 

Maple Gold, Product of Canada

Calling All Cods

Buying food and reading labels can be a dizzying task. One can't help but be overrun with questions like - Is this good for me and my family? Is it safe to eat? Where did this come from? Is this sustainable? Reading labels can work most of the time, but what if there’s no label; as with fish? You would think if a fish has been around since the beginning of time and spawned billions of eggs - there wouldn’t be any problem, right? But not so fast, too much of anything can be harmful, even cod. 

click image for Seafood Watch List for 2010

Here's a solution - Seafood Watch, provided by the same folks who operate the Monterey Bay Aquarium; which by the way is a fantastic experience to visit in itself. I’ve had the occasion to visit for both leisure and as a keynote speaker and celebrity chef a few years back to kick off the Monterey Food & Wine Classic. 

Pardon me while I digress, I will get right back to cod...While I have you in Monterey, I want to mention a one degree of separation between John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row (the gritty side of life in this seaside post depression novel) and lovely Monterey. One of my friend’s families was the basis of a character in Steinbeck's tome. It is also that same good friend, Bert Cutino from the famed Tortilla Flat neighborhood on Canary Row who owns the famed Sardine Factory, a must stop when in town. 

Now, back to the cod. With it’s mild flavor, low fat content and a dense, flaky white flesh, it's no wonder cod is one of the most common fish used for fish & chips along with haddock and plaice. But, did you know it is currently at risk from over fishing in UK, Canada and other Atlantic waters? So be in the know with Seafood Watch. Use this guide to find ocean-friendly alternatives to seafood on the Seafood Watch “Avoid” list. It’s a good thing to use discretion and follow their lead so in the future when we are calling all cods, there are still some around.

Avoid: Cod: Atlantic, Iceland and Northeast Arctic (trawled),  and Pacific (imported)

Best Choices: Cobia (US farmed), Cod- Pacific (trap, hook-and-line, longline from AK)

Good Alternatives: Cod- Atlantic (Northeast Arctic and Iceland), Cod- Pacific (U.S. trawl)

Real Men Don’t Eat Küche

Contrary to what you might believe, the tart quiche originated on German soil and not French. The widely popular classic of French cuisine heralds from an area of the medieval German kingdom Lothringen, aka Lorraine, France.

Years ago the pie was made with just eggs, cream, smoked bacon and bread dough. The word Küche or Küchen is German for cake; believed to be the origin of the word Quiche. 

Keep in mind, the Lorraine region has influence from Germany as well as France; so depending on who you ask or where you sampling your Quiche from - you may receive a slight variation of the recipe. Today a Quiche Lorraine is expected to contain cheese and onions, as well. The use of Gruyère cheese is a relatively new addition to quiche in France. Oh and don't expect to taste any Gruyère in your quiche in Lorraine; they are purists - sans the cheese. Too bad, it's a really good modification to the French recipe. In Germany expect onions and no cheese; and it's called Zwiebelkuchen.

I find it interesting to know the classical origin of a dish, but what is more important when making a quiche or any dish for that matter is - what influences the taste and texture of a dish. So for me the appeal is not to stick to its classical roots, but how the melding of cultures and the additions of flavorful savory ingredients, in this case, like onions and cheese have improved on this dish. 

As for Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche, the best selling book by Bruce Feirstein, which satirized stereotypes of masculinity; I can assure you based upon all the quiches I have made - real men DO eat quiche! 

Tips: 

Add 1 Tablespoon flour mixed into filling prior to adding egg/ milk mixture to help set a filling that is too moist, example: tomatoes, mushrooms, etc..  

To prevent a raw bottom of quiche, pre-bake pastry dough Blind (8-12 minutes with no color) before filling.

Bake directly on an oven rack. Baking quiche on a cookie or sheet pan will cause the tart or pie bottom to be raw. 

Feel free to improvise with flavors, seasonings, vegetables, meats and seafood. Just keep in mind that adding very moist fillings such as mushrooms, tomatoes, etc will affect the custard of eggs and milk or cream.

Better than Quiche Lorraine 

recipe by George Hirsch | Makes one 9-inch tart

For George's Pastry Crust:

Prepare George’s piecrust the night prior or at least 1 hour ahead; or use store bought piecrust. Roll out pastry into a 9-inch tart or pie pan. Pre-bake pastry dough Blind (8-12 minutes with no color) before filling.

For the Filling:

1 cup (approximately 6 slices) thick cut or slab bacon, cut into thin strips-'lardons'
1/2 cup sweet white onion, sliced thin
2 green onions, chopped
3 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups half-half or milk
Pinch of sea salt and fresh grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon each hot sauce, fresh grated black pepper
1 cup Gruyere or good Swiss cheese, shredded

Optional: 

2 Tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped 
2 Tablespoons Arugula, chopped

Preheat oven to 375F.

Pre heat a sauté pan to medium heat, cook bacon until brown and crisp. Remove bacon pieces and drain on a paper towel. Drain bacon fat from pan; add both onions to pan and cook for 2-3 minutes to slightly soften. Allow bacon and onions to cool. 

Place bacon, onion, parsley, Arugula, and Swiss cheese on top of blind baked pastry crust. 

In a bowl whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, nutmeg, hot sauce and pepper and pour the mixture over onion and bacon tart. 

Bake for 20 minutes, lower temperature to 350F; total baking time is 30 minutes or until egg custard is set. Allow to cool slightly and serve warm or at room temperature.  

 image

Pastry of the Nobility

That is- during the Renaissance. Have you ever had sfogliatelle? It just happens to be the very first pastry I learned to bake; let me add labor intensive to make. I have loved it ever since. As you know, I don't gravitate towards chocolate, mouses or cakes. The sfogliatelle is anything but that. It's the right mix of many, many layers of thin flakey dough, stuffed with a citron semolina and ricotta filling; shaped like a clam shell. It has a bit of crunch with a dense custard textured center.

Sampling purely for research purposes, (ahem) I find it difficult to decide - is sfogliatelle better in Rome or Amalfi? Well New Yorkers, I admit this Neapoliatan pastry tastes just as good in the Bronx, NY. But please do yourself a favor and go to a real authentic Italian pastry shop. Tastes best, served warm with a good espresso.

sfogliatelle

Tapenade

How about entertaining with a bit of Northern Spain/ South of France influence? Stock up on Olives and Anchovies. Tip: Give Arbequina olives a try - they are grown in Catalonia, Spain and have a buttery flavor with hints of pepper.

 

Tapenade comes from the word tapeno which means capers in Provence. The addition of sun dried tomatoes adds a little sweetness.

Olive Tapenade

Recipe by George Hirsch | Makes 1 cup

2/3 cup black oil cured olives (Kalamata or Nicoise), pitted and finely chopped 

2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and finely chopped 

4 cloves caramelized garlic 

2 Tablespoons capers, drained, rinsed under cold tap water and finely chopped 

2 small sun dried tomatoes, finely chopped 

4 Tablespoons virgin olive oil 

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 

3 basil leaves , chopped

In a bowl, mix together the olives, anchovies, garlic, capers, sun dried tomatoes, oil, pepper, and water. Spread Tapenade on toasted French baguette bread, top with fresh basil, or serve with your favorite sandwich.