Queen of Dressing

George Hirsch April 8, 2022

A tribute to a mix of green herbs, specifically parsley and chives. Prior to the popularity of ranch dressing, Green Goddess was the queen of dressings, gracing salads worldwide.

Let me get this out of the way first; Seven Seas did not create the original Green Goddess Dressing. Its earliest roots stem from a classical French cooking cold sauce (dressing) called Sauce Au Vert, created for Louis XIII of France circa 1640. That's just around the time of the legendary Chef Vatel (more on him next week). This cold sauce gained popularity in the 1920s with the help of a theater production named The Green Goddess, which ran in San Francisco.

All cold sauces are created equal, with just a few adjustments in the ingredients. For example, if you think Thousand Island Dressing with a reduction of a few condiments and adding a larger quantity of freshly washed herbs, such as chives, tarragon, chervil, or parsley - you’ve got Green Goddess!

The herbs should be chopped fine and squeezed dry in a cheesecloth or clean kitchen towel; while reserving the juice exiting from the herbs to color and, more importantly, flavor the cold sauce. Or, chop in a food processor and add all the chopped herbs and juice to the dressing. The herbs are then added to the base sauce. Viola!

Green Goddess, aka. Sauce Au Vert

Mix, 1 cup olive oil mayonnaise, 1/2 cup plain yogurt, 1/2 cup sour cream, 3 pureed anchovy fillets, 4 cloves Caramelized Garlic, 1/2 teaspoon of lemon zest, juice of half a lemon, dash of hot sauce, and fresh ground black pepper. Add 1/4 cup each finely chopped chives and parsley, with squeezed juice, into the dressing.

Chef George Hirsch Flatbread Pizza YouTube

Sold out

13 EPISODES on 4 HD-DVD Disk Set, season one

$19.95

Gather 'Round the Grill Cookbook, Vintage (new)

$50.00

George Hirsch Living it UP! cooking & lifestyle book

$24.95

The Queen of Ireland

George Hirsch March 6, 2022

Postscript note from George: I am honored to have met and interviewed so many who have made a mark in their field; this case Mrytle Allen. Mrytle passed June 13th, 2018, at the age of 94, leaving her legend of farm-to-table roots well ahead of today’s national and global movement. Their family farm, restaurant, and Ballymaloe House is a testament to her legacy. I am a better chef and person for meeting her and sharing her story with you. I hope you enjoy the classic interview and TV segment from George Hirsch Living it UP!

Original Post 3/2005. If Ireland were to have a Queen, then without question, she would be Myrtle Allen. I had the honor to visit Myrtle while filming in Ireland. What did I learn from this amazing lady? That necessity is the mother of invention and that we become what we are destined to be by applying ourselves in pursuit of excellence.

Myrtle sums up how it all began, "I suppose it all started in 1932 when Ivan, aged 17, came to help Wilson Strangman to run his farm at Shanagarry. Times were hard but he and Ivan diversified their production brilliantly into alternative crops. These were and still are the basis of our cuisine. In 1943, in wartime, large quantities of tomatoes, mushrooms, cucumbers and apples were being exported from the farm to England and Wales. The surplus came into my kitchen along with cream, butter and eggs and slowly I learned how to cook with them, guided by my gourmet husband. In 1964 I felt confident enough to open our dining room as a restaurant for dinner on five nights a week. I knew our food was good but I didn't expect to get so many awards. As farm prices went down we expanded our rooms and restaurant business."

Myrtle Allen and her late husband Ivan founded Ballymaloe House in 1964. They used only fresh produce from their garden and greenhouses, meat reared locally, and fresh fish from nearby Ballycotton. The menu is written each afternoon, based on what is fresh and seasonally available. Dining at Ballymaloe is simply perfection, served in a friendly, knowledgeable way.

Myrtle Allen has been honored with every food and hospitality award. The National University of Ireland has conferred the award of Doctor of Laws for her contribution to Cuisine in Ireland and for giving the Irish people the confidence to believe in their own resources.

Myrtle has served as an exemplary role model for all to follow. While today, going green and organic is all the rage, Myrtle had set the standard decades ago. , the culinary world is a better place under her tutelage. Today, there is so much pride in Ireland’s cuisine and largely due to her efforts; her columns in the Irish Times, cookbook author, restaurateur/ hotelier, and influence as a cookery teacher.

I send my appreciation over the pond to an incredible lady who inspired so many by setting such high standards in the culinary arts. When she is crowned Queen, I would surely serve in her court.

Visit Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry, County Cork, Ireland. Or, at least take the time for a virtual visit and read up on this amazing family with three generations running the Ballymaloe enterprises. CLICK TO WATCH VIDEO from George Hirsch Lifestyle on Mrytle Allen and Ballymaloe.

Sold out

13 EPISODES on 4 HD-DVD Disk Set, season one

George Hirsch Living it UP! cooking & lifestyle book

Classic Apple Charlotte

George Hirsch February 21, 2022

COMING FEBRUARY 25th

**28 years.** That is how long we have been together since you first welcomed me into your home to share my take on cooking and baking. Always with my belief that if I can do it, you can do it! Food and culture have come a long way, only going back to the way it should be. Keep it simple, prepared with love.
This week *George Hirsch Lifestyle* TV releases on PBS Passport, Feb 25th; you will be able to watch episodes on your schedule any time you choose. Thank you for being part of my culinary journey.

As long as you have fresh apples and sliced bread you can make this elegant dessert. A classical sweet, Apple Charlotte, aka Charlotte de Pommes was created by Chef Marie Antoine Carême, who confectioned and cooked for Chef King George IV in London; also for Talleyrand, the Rothschilds in Paris and at his longtime Pâtisserie de la rue de la Paix. It is said he created the Charlotte during his brief stint in St. Petersburg in honor of his Russian employer Czar Alexander.

Who would think that a classical French dessert would become a favorite traditional English dessert? It's up there with bread and butter pudding and fool. Recently it received notoriety on the BBC and PBS TV airings of Downton Abby. The Crawley's cook, Mrs. Patmore was not able to fulfill the wish of Lady Crawley's request to serve Apple Charlotte for a very important dinner party. If only Mrs. Patmore had known just how simple this dessert is. Basically, it's a tart that uses day-old sliced bread in place of sliced sponge cake with a homemade apple sauce filling. In fact, it's so simple that every one of my students who prepared this dessert could have served it with pride for Lady Crawley's elegant dinner.

But not to fret if you don't live in a grand manor house or have no culinary degree, try this dessert for a casual weeknight and you will make Chef Marie Carême proud. And yes, I have even prepared this recipe on a grill!

Classic Apple Charlotte

Makes 8-10 servings

chefgeorgehirsch.com | George Hirsch Lifestyle

For the Crust:

About 10-15 slices good firm white bread, remove crusts and cut accordingly:

- Cut approximately 6 slices into triangles, resulting in 12 pieces to fan around the bottom of the cake pan - (use more if using a larger pan)

- Cut enough slices in half and trim the height of bread to the same height of the cake pan, as directed below

- Cut remaining slices to place on top, after filling with apple mixture

8 Tablespoons sweet butter, 1 stick melted

Line the bottom of a nine-inch cake pan or oven-proof mold with 12 bread triangles that have been dipped in melted butter, overlapping them slightly as they are put in place.

Next, line the sides of the cake pan with bread pieces in melted butter as the same length as the height of the cake pan, overlapping them slightly as they are put in place. Continue until the entire inside of the cake pan is covered. Hint: the bread acts like a pastry so it is important to slightly overlap all pieces of bread while assembling the Charlotte.

For the Filling:

6 apples (3 Granny Smith, 3 Gala or other sweet variety); peeled cored, and chopped small

1/4 cup white wine, or water

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup raisins

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

pinch, freshly grated nutmeg

Optional: 2 Tablespoons rum

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. SEE DIRECTIONS BELOW

Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a saucepan and add chopped apples to the saucepan with the wine, sugar, raisins, lemon zest, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Cook until apples are soft and slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Remove and cool slightly.

Drain any remaining liquid from the apple mixture into a small saucepan. Over low heat, reduce the remaining liquid from the apple mixture to a syrup-like consistency, flavor with rum, and pour back into the apple mixture. Place apple mixture into the bread-lined cake pan and press cooked apples down lightly with the back of a spatula. For the top, cut pieces of bread to cover Charlotte also dipped in butter.

Bake on the center rack in a 375 degree F oven for 30 to 40 minutes. Check after twenty-five minutes. If the top of Charlotte starts to brown too much, place a loose piece of foil or parchment paper on top.

Remove from oven and let the Charlotte cool and set for a few minutes. Place a serving plate over the baked Charlotte and turn it out carefully.

Serve warm or chilled with fresh whipped cream and an optional Apricot Sauce on the side.

Apricot Sauce

Serve on the side | Makes about one pint

1 cup Apricot Marmalade

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

2 Tablespoons brandy

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Combine all ingredients. In a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes while blending all ingredients.

Sold out

13 EPISODES on 4 HD-DVD Disk Set, season one

George Hirsch Living it UP! cooking & lifestyle book

Hushpuppies or Cornballs?

George Hirsch February 17, 2022

COMING FEBRUARY 25th

Where does the name Hushpuppies come from?

The name "hushpuppies" is often attributed to southern cooks who were frying some basic cornmeal mixture. They possibly had been bread-coating or battering their own food with and feeding it to their dogs to "hush the puppies" during cook-outs or fish fries.

Depending on where you are in the world, some hushpuppies or cornballs are cooked in every culture. Either savory or sweet - such as the falafel, sorullitos, and festivals. Typically you may think of hush puppies as a BBQ or seafood side dish. Originating in the southern region of the USA - tasty comfort food. Yes, I included my own version of it in my cookbooks and TV series. Enjoy cooking some up for yourself.

Hush Puppies

chefgeorgehirsch.com | George Hirsch Lifestyle

1 cup cornmeal

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup milk

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 Tablespoons melted butter

1 Tablespoon fine chopped parsley

Peanut or Vegetable oil for frying

* optional suggestions: onions, hot pepper, crisp-cooked bacon, finely chopped ham or crab meat

Combine cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Add the milk, add egg and beat with a whisk or fork until the batter is smooth and no lumps remain. Stir in the butter, parsley and set the batter aside for 15 to 20 minutes.

Fill a deep saucepan or deep-fat fryer with 2 to 3 inches of vegetable oil and heat to 360 degrees F.

Scoop up a scant tablespoon of batter off the spoon into the hot fat. When the hush puppies rise to the top in about 1 minute, turn them over and cook until evenly brown, about 2 minutes total. Remove and drain on paper towels. Hush Puppies should always be served piping hot.

Sold out

13 EPISODES on 4 HD-DVD Disk Set, season one

George Hirsch Living it UP! cooking & lifestyle book

Hot Brown

George Hirsch January 20, 2022

A Hot Brown is a hot sandwich originally created at the Brown Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky, by Fred K. Schmidt in 1926. It was one of two signature sandwiches created by chefs at the Brown Hotel shortly after its founding in 1923. The Brown Hotel is a grand property, of distinctive English Renaissance design and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

According to The Hot Brown legend, "In the 1920's, The Brown Hotel drew over 1,200 guests each evening for its dinner dance. In the wee hours of the morning, the guests would grow tired of dancing and retire to the restaurant for a bite to eat. Diners were growing rapidly bored with the traditional ham and eggs, so Chef Fred Schmidt set out to create something new to tempt his guests' palates. His unique creation was an open-faced turkey sandwich with bacon and a delicate Mornay sauce."

The dish is a local specialty and favorite of the Louisville area, and is popular throughout Kentucky. Think fondue-like only more of a pub-ish lunch; ideal and comforting during cold weather. The Hot Brown is an open-faced sandwich w/ turkey and or bacon, covered in Mornay sauce and baked or broiled until the bread is crisp and the sauce begins to brown. Other varieties of Hot Browns may include ham with the turkey, and either pimentos or tomatoes over the sauce.

Making The Sauce

A béchamel or white sauce can be spiced up with a pinch of cayenne pepper, or hot sauce, 1/2 cup IPA (or another good ale), 1 teaspoon prepared English mustard, and pinch of paprika.

Finish the sauce off with 1 cup finely shredded cheddar cheese. Whisk in and simmer just until the cheese is melted. Serve a couple tablespoons of sauce over a slice of good wheat toast. Serve as is, or you may want to place the 'Hot Brown' under a broiler for 30 seconds to brown lightly. Top with chopped chives or green onion. I've also topped this with a slice of good ripe tomato + sweet onion. Enjoy.

A Light Béchamel Recipe

chefgeorgehirsch.com | George Hirsch Lifestyle

1 Tablespoon sweet butter

1 Tablespoon flour

1/2 cup half & half (can use milk for a lighter version)

In a small sauce pan over low heat add butter and flour and cook for 2-3 minutes. With a wire whisk add in milk and allow to simmer until slightly thickened.

If using béchamel for Hot Brown, continue adding ingredients as above and simmer for 5 minutes while continuing to stir.

George Hirsch Living it UP! cooking & lifestyle book