Classic Apple Charlotte

COMING FEBRUARY 25th

28 years. That is how long we have been together since you first welcomed me into your home to share my take on cooking and baking. Always with my belief that if I can do it, you can do it! Food and culture have come a long way, only going back to the way it should be. Keep it simple, prepared with love.

This week George Hirsch Lifestyle TV releases on PBS Passport, Feb 25th; you will be able to watch episodes on your schedule any time you choose. Thank you for being part of my culinary journey.

As long as you have fresh apples and sliced bread you can make this elegant dessert. A classical sweet, Apple Charlotte, aka Charlotte de Pommes was created by Chef Marie Antoine Carême, who confectioned and cooked for Chef King George IV in London; also for Talleyrand, the Rothschilds in Paris and at his longtime Pâtisserie de la rue de la Paix. It is said he created the Charlotte during his brief stint in St. Petersburg in honor of his Russian employer Czar Alexander. 

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Who would think that a classical French dessert would become a favorite traditional English dessert? It's up there with bread and butter pudding and fool. Recently it received notoriety on the BBC and PBS TV airings of Downton Abby. The Crawley's cook, Mrs. Patmore was not able to fulfill the wish of Lady Crawley's request to serve Apple Charlotte for a very important dinner party. If only Mrs. Patmore had known just how simple this dessert is. Basically, it's a tart that uses day-old sliced bread in place of sliced sponge cake with a homemade apple sauce filling. In fact, it's so simple that every one of my students who prepared this dessert could have served it with pride for Lady Crawley's elegant dinner.

But not to fret if you don't live in a grand manor house or have no culinary degree, try this dessert for a casual weeknight and you will make Chef Marie Carême proud. And yes, I have even prepared this recipe on a grill!   

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Classic Apple Charlotte

Makes 8-10 servings

chefgeorgehirsch.com | George Hirsch Lifestyle

For the Crust:

About 10-15 slices good firm white bread, remove crusts and cut accordingly:

- Cut approximately 6 slices into triangles, resulting in 12 pieces to fan around the bottom of the cake pan - (use more if using a larger pan)

- Cut enough slices in half and trim the height of bread to the same height of the cake pan, as directed below

- Cut remaining slices to place on top, after filling with apple mixture

8 Tablespoons sweet butter, 1 stick melted

Line the bottom of a nine-inch cake pan or oven-proof mold with 12 bread triangles that have been dipped in melted butter, overlapping them slightly as they are put in place.

Next, line the sides of the cake pan with bread pieces in melted butter as the same length as the height of the cake pan, overlapping them slightly as they are put in place. Continue until the entire inside of the cake pan is covered. Hint: the bread acts like a pastry so it is important to slightly overlap all pieces of bread while assembling the Charlotte. 

For the Filling:

6 apples (3 Granny Smith, 3 Gala or other sweet variety); peeled cored, and chopped small

1/4 cup white wine, or water

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup raisins

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

pinch, freshly grated nutmeg

Optional: 2 Tablespoons rum

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. SEE DIRECTIONS BELOW

Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a saucepan and add chopped apples to the saucepan with the wine, sugar, raisins, lemon zest, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Cook until apples are soft and slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Remove and cool slightly. 

Drain any remaining liquid from the apple mixture into a small saucepan. Over low heat, reduce the remaining liquid from the apple mixture to a syrup-like consistency, flavor with rum, and pour back into the apple mixture. Place apple mixture into the bread-lined cake pan and press cooked apples down lightly with the back of a spatula. For the top, cut pieces of bread to cover Charlotte also dipped in butter. 

Bake on the center rack in a 375 degree F oven for 30 to 40 minutes. Check after twenty-five minutes. If the top of Charlotte starts to brown too much, place a loose piece of foil or parchment paper on top. 

Remove from oven and let the Charlotte cool and set for a few minutes. Place a serving plate over the baked Charlotte and turn it out carefully.

Serve warm or chilled with fresh whipped cream and an optional Apricot Sauce on the side.

Apricot Sauce

Serve on the side | Makes about one pint

1 cup Apricot Marmalade 

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

2 Tablespoons brandy

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Combine all ingredients. In a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes while blending all ingredients. 

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Strawberry Mascarpone Crepes as seen on George Hirsch Lifestyle

COMING FEBRUARY 25th

In a professional kitchen, crepes are prepared using several pans at a time, usually making hundreds in only a few minutes. Making crepes is all about rhythm. Once the batter is made and rested for at least 30 minutes you are ready to go. Don’t fret the first couple of crepes not coming out perfect, just give them up as your practice warm-up, just like a batter taking his first pitch or the orchestra warming up in the pit. Once you are on a roll you’ll find yourself making crepes for both sweet and savory. 

Strawberry Mascarpone Crepes

Makes four servings

 chefgeorgehirsch.com | George Hirsch Lifestyle 

Crepe Batter:

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

1 cup milk

2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 Tablespoons butter, melted

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon fine grated orange zest

2 Tablespoons sliced almonds, crushed

2 egg whites

1 Tablespoon granulated pure cane sugar

Place the flour and salt in a medium bowl and slowly add the milk and egg yolks, using a whisk to avoid lumps.  Do not over mix. Stir in the milk, cream, melted butter, orange zest, almonds, and vanilla.  

Cover and refrigerate for 30-60 minutes.

Right before making the crepes, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks.  Gradually add the granulated sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form.  Gently fold the beaten egg whites into the flour mixture.

Preheat a crepe pan or a 7-inch nonstick skillet & lightly grease with melted butter or vegetable spray.  When the pan is very hot, pour in 2 Tablespoons of the batter and swirl it around.  Cook 1 minute, turn, and cook another minute on the other side.  Remove and set aside.  Crepes may be stacked one on top of another, up to ten high. 

Continue making crepes with remaining batter.

For Filling & Topping:

2 cups mixed berries (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries)

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 Tablespoon granulated pure cane sugar

1/4 cup strawberry conserves or jam

1 Tablespoon brandy or Grand Manier

1 Tablespoon granulated pure cane sugar

Confectioners’ sugar

1/2 cup fresh softened mascarpone or whipped cream

8 Fresh Mint leaves

In a large bowl add mixed berries. Slice strawberries to be about the same size as other berries. Add orange juice and 1 Tablespoon granulated sugar to berries and toss. 

Mix brandy with jam and place two teaspoons of raspberry jam in the center of each crepe; add a few mixed berries in the center of each crepe. Roll up and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.  

Serve two crepes per serving with a dollop of fresh mascarpone or whipped cream and top off the crepes with fresh mint leaves.

Chef Notes: 

To achieve good volume and soft peaks on the egg whites, make sure there is no yolk in whites and that the bowl is totally grease-free. A good tip to ensure a grease-free surface is to wipe out the bowl with a paper towel with just a drop of white vinegar before adding egg whites to bowl.

To make the above recipe savory, omit from batter the vanilla, orange rind, almonds, and granulated cane sugar. Replace regular melted butter with brown butter for a slightly roasted flavor; add 1 Tablespoon of fresh chopped herbs such as Italian parsley, or basil, or chives. 

Crepes are a great do-ahead consideration for your menu. No need to prepare at the last minute. Simply stack prepared crepes in stacks of about ten and when cool, wrap in plastic film. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 days or freeze for up to one month.

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